September 2017

Visit to Sicily and  Italy, Part 2

Reggio Calabria, Long Boardwalk

Our first stop in mainland Southern Italy was Reggio Calabria. Right on the ocean, it appears to be a tourist spot developed over the centuries. We went straight for lunch and enjoyed a hot risotto with pumpkin. Similar to our khichdi or pongal, it was an enjoyable change from pasta. The restaurant was a very picturesque setting and with our hunger satisfied, we all set about taking group photos in the landscaped gardens by the ocean.
Our guide met us and took us for a long walk on the promenade which was maintained in great condition. It had all been re-built after a major earthquake in 1908. One could either walk on the higher level or right by the ocean. Both afforded lovely views. However, our guide did not give us the option of lingering. We walked all the way to the end and then branched off into the town to see the cathedral from outside. All stores were closed for the afternoon, so we walked back to the hotel, checked in and rested, vowing to come back for evening views and cappuccino. The Athena statue was inspiration enough to sit on the steps and just talk or be silent. We gazed out to the sea as so many eyes must have over the centuries and marvelled at the creation of that unseen hand as well as talented humans.

Lunch in a Large Cave
We headed next morning for Matera, a long drive but extremely pleasant with pastoral scenery again. We stopped by a fruit stand as the bus filled up on gas and took pics of the long strands of red peppers. We had finally learnt the name of red pepper, pepperoncino, so essential for spicing up our food! Matera was a unique town and we had lunch actually in a cave! Not a tiny pokey one, but huge with several levels. Just the approach was so unique, down steep steps but with a view to die for! The Sassi or old town was spread out below us. It was one time no one complained about how many steps we had to climb. The restaurant food was great, more so the bundles of cheese they brought out in generous servings. If one ate all of it, it would be the cholesterol quota for the whole year, but seriously, the taste was unbelievable, mild like fresh mozzarella, we did not find out the intricacies of the names. Caves which were once the residences of the poor, were now taken over by restaurants and hotels. The famous Alberobello region of Italy is still almost as it was hundreds of years ago.

Grotto Castellana

The next morning was a day of miraculous sights, natural and man made. We were taken to Grotto Castellana, a humongous underground region of stalagmites and stalactites. Most of us have seen Luray Caverns in Virginia and many other such wonders, but never have I seen anything so big, so varied and in such beautiful colors. The trek inside, almost two hours, had to be made through painstakingly small paths (talk about how hard it must have been to make it tourist safe), often bending our heads and stepping gingerly on slippery floors. But it was totally worth it. The formations, along the three plus miles, sometimes like a Ganesha, sometimes like the Madonna and baby Jesus, here a cathedral, there some curtains of alabaster with perfect folds! Words are not adequate to describe this must see wonder. Formations were big and small, in pure white or pastel shades. Towards the end, just before we turned back, we saw the lovely cathedral formation in pure white.

The Unique Truli Homes

The next attraction to look forward to were the “Truli” the plural of “Trulo” which are a type of dwelling. Apparently these have been around since the 15th Century and are very cleverly constructed without any mortar. They are slabs of flat limestones put together in layers that defied natural disasters. They could also be easily dismantled and moved to other locations in case the feudal system demanded too much tax. There were hundreds of them, all still in good condition with people living in them or using them as hotels and restaurants. No longer considered a poor man’s property, they go for top Euros. Sometimes two or more are joined together to provide for bigger living quarters and we were able to see inside one and meet an authentic Italian family. Since 1994 it is a Unesco site and they even designed a church in the village using the Truli architecture to fit in. The town too was strategically located on a hill affording excellent views both of the Truli and the other dwellings, piled up close together.

The Alberobello Region

Our hotel in Alberobello, a small one had a nice location close to the city square with a cathedral and we could go on our own walk around. In fact the next morning there was a quick set up market with bags and other household items and the shoppers of our group had a free hand in striking some deals! That night was a bit sentimental as some of the group members were leaving. In fact, Pradeep, one the youngest members of our group, expressed eloquently his appreciation of his vacation with his parents and “friends” and said he enjoyed our company and the sights seen. Prema, Pradeep’s mom passed around some good wine. It was yet another chance to enjoy each other’s company over a leisurely homely dinner where the “Mom” of the manager had made delicious lemon tiramisu and other home baked goods.

We had seen lovely vineyards all along our drive and in fact a truck loaded with grapes had even given us free samples at a rest stop. But our visit to the wine tasting the next morning was somewhat of a let down as it was part of the town, nowhere scenic and just machinery and bottles of wine! Lunch was on our own and a pleasant change. We had pizza at a rest stop, but it was freshly made to order and with a thin crust. This avoided a two hour served meal! To save time, we headed straight for the Amalfi coast and skipped some towns scheduled in between. Before dark, we reached the famous Amalfi Coast, our luxury hotel in Vietri. The view did not disappoint and we enjoyed two days here, even having our food in the hotel. First and foremost we ordered capuchinos and sat on the patio overlooking the famous blue waters and the winding coastline where many movies had been filmed, including “Only You!” (which I happened to have seen on TV!) Then we laughed and thought of all the expressions with which to describe this scene so we could make other friends jealous! “A view to die for” won the competition!

Isle of Capri
The next day after enjoying our breakfast (did I mention Nutella was part of the breakfast menu and I had some everyday!) we headed on the short drive to the shore where we boarded our boats for the world famous Isle of Capri. The ride was pleasant and the island and ocean were scenic but it has probably lost some of the charm and romance associated with it in the bygone days. We were pointed out the place Jackie Kennedy stayed while on a vacation. We found it fairly commercial. What’s more, as soon as we landed, we were whisked away in another boat to see the Blue Grotto! This certainly was not an adventure for seniors as the seas were choppy and we had to anchor near the coast for over half and hour waiting for the rowboats. Once in them, we had to follow barked orders to lie down almost flat in the floor of the tiny boats, never mind that some had back and knee problems! Just do it!! Well, the entrance to the grotto was very small and while going in we had to be flat in order not to get scraped! Some almost lost their glasses. Once in, we could straighten up a bit and forget our discomfort in the few magical moments when the boatmen sang an Italian ditty and rowed in a circle while we admired the cool blueness of the water filled cave. We came out wishing we had done this, say 20 years earlier!

Ana Capri, Gorgeous Views

We then rode by bus to Ana Capri at the top of the island and saw the spectacular views. Back on the ship, we landed at Positano, another port with upscale stores. After more views, we were taken to our larger bus and instead of the boat, we rode on the very famous winding roads of the Amalfi coast, enjoying the ocean view. We just need to close our eyes and the picture unfolds, the bright sunshine, the blue waters with small ships and the amazing homes built on the sheer cliffs. We heard from our guide that 75 per cent of Italy is hills, the 75 miles of the Amalfi coast had over 3,300 hairpin bends and many long tunnels. Only local drivers were allowed to drive here.

Pompeii Ruins, Mt. Vesuvious
Heading toward Rome our tour had planned a stop at Pompeii near Naples. Just the name summons up old history, Julius Ceaser, Mark Anthony, Brutus etc. Not that they lived here, but the the volcanic eruption of the Vesuvius was of historical proportions in 79 AD spewing fire and ash. In the middle of the day everything went dark and there were loud noises and within moments a column of fire, smoke and ask started spewing from Mount Vesuvius. This could be seen from 28 miles away and wind blew and rained 13 feet of hot ash in the vicinity. Roofs collapsed and people were arrested in the positions they were in, instantly solidified by the boiling mud of over 500 degrees. Eventually a chance discovery while digging for water led to the finding of the buried city. The surprising part was not the eruption but the discovery of the sophisticated civilization of Pompepii. How the Romans lived was evident here, they had baths to avoid disease, amphitheaters for drama, running water, sewage, even spas with Carrara marbles still intact. The roads and high sidewalks were well planned, measured to allow their chariots with iron wheels to roll smoothly and people to walk and cross over safely. Everyone loved seeing the brick oven for pizza, probably the oldest our group had ever seen, just like it is today in many places in the US! Some things do not change! In the museum within the complex rested in a glass cases some actual victims, now preserved for the visitors to see.

We had a lunch every kid would have been happy with, pizza, speghetti, French Fries and Ice Cream, even the ketchup was so tasty! Top that off with some shopping for beads, volcanic rock souvenirs etc.,  put everyone in a happy mood. Then we headed for Rome. More pizza and this time we were served with a full mid-size pie each! Could not finish and could not take home either. Contrary to guide books saying “the food in Italy is not like Olive Garden”, we pretty much loved it all, especially our mini group’s dinner in Florence, more on that later.

Vatican City, Spectacular paintings on walls

The big day was coming up next morning, a visit to Vatican City. We rested and got ready early, following all the security protocol and being mindful of our possessions. It was rather crowded but we moved through the various halls smoothly, uneventfully. The paintings all around in every inch of wall space and ceiling were spectacular, unbelievable and awe inspiring, depicting beautiful humans and Gods and situations from religion and history. We could photograph everywhere except the beautiful Sistine Chapel. Michaelangelo’s talent that lives centuries after his efforts. We could have used a week, but all too soon we were propelled out by the crowd (not as bad as our Indian temples, we could linger a bit!!) We saw the window from which smoke comes out when a new Pope is elected, and the large square where people assemble on special holy days. Also we were able to see St. Peter’s Basilica. Each church and building so beautiful inside and out.

The Vatican square, Roman Forum and the Colosseum

Rome has so much to offer but we were doing it all in a day. So in the afternoon we set out to visit the ancient ruins of the Forum where political discussions would have taken place, now a cluster of columns, some upright, some on the ground. Still very impressive. Then there was the famous Colosseum. Though still at many levels, it is a ghost of its past glory, mainly because its good stones were stolen piece by piece we were told! We could see some re-construction, re-creation in the central area. The area beneath lay exposed, possibly where gladiators and beasts awaited their turn in the bygone eras. The Trevi fountain, more of a mini waterfall among the sculptures, provided our early evening entertainment, the streets nearby buzzing with activity. We also explored and found the Spanish Steps not too far away. After that it back to our bus and hotel, arrivederci Roma!

 

Some more fellow travellers departed and we did the last lap which was Siena, Florence and Pisa. We also drove through the Tuscany Valley, purported to be the most scenic region of Italy. The drive through was very pleasant, though in a other seasons, the view would have provided even more beauty. The rich and famous from all over the world owned villas here or rented them! The slim cypress trees added to the uniqueness. Everywhere the drivers were really good, they had a black box on the bus that recorded their speed, prompting them to be on best behavior!
Our lunch stop and first sight-seeing was in Siena. The word burnt sienna in a paint box comes from here, a brick like red baked by the sun. The Paleo horse race is also famous here,. In our brief walk along the ancient fort wall and into the small town, we saw two things that appealed to us. One was a square dedicated to Mother Teresa near the San Domenico Basilica. The Church was pretty with marble, gold and stained glass. The other was a 24 inch pizza! We had a long walk and spend a very pleasant hour or so in the city square surrounded by shops and restaurants. Of course gelato was a given. Then we drove on to Florence, one of the most memorable Italian towns. The night we arrived some of us were able to eat at Il Portico, an authentic Italian restaurant where we were served very nice vegetarian food. Marco and the staff even helped us to determine the quantity for our group of 12 and the chef served us roasted sweet onion on the house!

Siena and Florence, The Leaning Tower of Pisa

The next day we spent considerable amount of time in the town square and saw the famous Duomo. Many famous people had been baptised here and the decorated door to the baptism hall was beautiful. Michelangelo called it Heaven’s Door. A new façade had been put up in the 19th C. but the cathedral with its art and huge proportions outside was something we had never seen before. At the apex was a Virgin Mary with a flower. The marble was in three colors, complementing each other. Later walking around we went into a small church where Dante met his muse, Beatrice. Exploring the town more, we came upon the famous statues, especially notable being David, who I guess comes to be depicted as the most perfect looking human. But disappointment, these were not originals! Those were in a museum for which booking were done way ahead and we did not have the luxury of time. But even the copies were so good, talent is everywhere in Italy. Florence also proved to be the shoppers paradise where almost everybody bought leather handbags.

View of Florence city and the Piazza with leaning tower of Pisa

On our way to Pisa we stopped by the Michaelangelo Square which sported another statue of David and a view of great vistas of the town below. The drive to Pisa was good, but it was very close to sundown when we reached. Good that we made it because in that light, the leaning tower was just great! I had expected a rough stone structure, but its marble and intricacies blew my mind. My observation: the tower was peeping out from behind all the other beautiful cathedrals saying, “look at me”! We just sat there and admired it. Here was a building with character. It was more than a tall tower that was leaning but still intact and safe. After the Taj Mahal, it will rank second for me as far as marble edifices go! There was not time enough to climb it (though some rushed into it) but taking pictures on the outside was very nice. So was sitting on some nearby steps and admiring it while some others went shopping.
So ended our memorable trip, thanks to the organizers, we saw a lot and took fabulous photos which will bring back our sweet experiences and let us relive our travels.