Iceland Trip Part  2              September 2022                           Shamla Shankar

            After having seen so much within our first few days itself we were wondering what other surprises Iceland could possibly have!  But we were surprised at the varied and wondrous sights yet to come.  On Day 3 we had to check out of our comfortable hotel as we were heading for southern parts of Iceland toward Vik.  We left after a hearty breakfast and drove for about 2 hours.   The bus ride was pleasant with varying scenery and greenery.

 A word here on the foliage of Iceland.  Trees were really sparse.  Bogs and marshes and moorlands was the description of many miles.  Most of the land in this part of the island was volcanic rocks that could be seen in small lumps all along the way.  However, they were covered in moss.  Our guide explained that moss was extremely important for the breaking down of the rocks into rich soil.  Often light fences were made along the road to prevent people treading on the moss and also to prevent sheep from wandering on to the roads.   The only cultivation we saw was of green grass to feed the sheep, cattle and horses.  We saw animals grazing here and there on the grass.  At the end of the season, bales of hay covered in plastic were ready to be stored as food for the winter for the domesticated animals.

The fun and games part of our trip started when we reached our first destination – a lovely waterfall known as Seljalandsfoss.  Besides its scenic value, it was of great importance to us because a Bollywood movie — Dilwale — was picturized beautifully here.  The Gerua song included three different waterfalls in Iceland it seems and we saw two of them.  It was also shot at the black sand beach, the glacier bay we were scheduled to visit and some other destinations we did not even see!  Everyone was in a joyful mood and a few couples did some dance moves in front of the waterfall (in the hopes that some Bollywood producer was watching?).  Someone was playing the Gerua song on their phone and bystanders were well entertained.   A suggestion was even made to Ashish that he publicize his Iceland tours in India as the Dilwale 3 group! (The 3 alludes to the Shah Rukh Khan and Kajol pairing in the first two movies which were hits).  The dance moves continued at the next waterfalls as well.   The sun was out, the water was sparkling and we stood mesmerized drinking in the amazing scenery.   The adventurous ones in our group did the quick trek behind the falls and braved the wet sprays while the rest of us were content to enjoy the views.

The next waterfall, a short drive along our route, was Skogafoss.  At a width of 82 feet and a stunning height of 200 feet there was water rushing down with  great force. Here there was a long climb to the top of the cliff close to the falls.  Over 400 steps are hewn into the side of the mountain and a grassy knoll on top.  Again, most of us opted to stay by the falls which ran off as a bubbling, babbling  brook of pure glacial waters. Our tour organizers allowed us a leisurely stroll to enjoy this rare sight.

All the beauty of nature on a pleasant sunny day made us hungry and we headed for our pre-arranged lunch at Hotel Dyrholaey.  We were also going to stay at the same hotel, but the eating arrangements supervised by a very talented Maharaj was in an attached annex of the hotel.  Our check-in was much later but right now we were focused on the delicious Indian food provided to us.  I could be wrong but the menu included missal paav, veggie burgers and other delicious items and gulab jamun as desert.  The variety we were given at these Indian buffets was mind boggling.  We did not miss a single meal though we were on the road. Hot cases were often full of delicious food and Ashish set up a tempting buffet in minutes.  We ate and enjoyed and were ready for the next part of our sight-seeing.

The charming village of Vik close to the ocean

As we drove in the bus, our guide told us that one of the volcanoes in Iceland had been the cause of many flights being grounded in 2010 and all flights taking those routes for hundreds of miles around due to poor visibility due to volcanic ash and smoke.  Many of us could recall that time.   Our  destination was Black Sand beach. The sand, though pretty was the least of it!  We could guess that lava rocks led to the fine powdering and color of this sand.  There were pretty lava pebbles too. For the record this beach is named Reynisfjara.   But most of us had never seen such fabulous rock formations and huge mountain caves on any beach.  The basalt rock columns can simply not be described in words.   They were piles of perfectly symmetrical vertical rectangles about 3 feet high in my estimation and packed together in a small area.  The agile people and kids could climb up to a certain point on them. They made for a great photo backdrop.  It appears that this formation is due to the fractures appearing in lava rocks of basaltic origin and the sudden cooling causes stones to contract from the edge in a geometric form of similar size and shape, piled on top of each other and packed close together. The caves themselves were very wide and quite close to the water with fairly low ceilings.   In the ocean water also, there were tall rocks sculpted by the wind and waves, reminiscent of the Ten Apostles off the eastern coast of Australia.   We strolled a bit and just could not stop taking pictures of this rare and wondrous beach.

The amazing rock formations on Black Sand beach, one of a kind

 Reluctantly we left and headed back to the hotel which had a unique layout.  Firstly, it had  two floors but ramps only in some places to pull the suitcases up.  The elevator was nowhere to be seen.  We had to walk yards of internal passageways to get to our own special Indian dining hall and the breakfast buffet hall in the opposite direction.  But when good food is to be had, “where there is a will there is a way!”  By the second day we had mastered the routes.  The Indian kitchen and hall had a lounge with old furniture and we made it our home after the day’s sight-seeing, especially the men who wanted to enjoy a beer or wine and chit chat.  The rooms were sparse but well planned with platforms to keep our luggage and a nice bathroom and shower.   It appeared to be newly constructed.  It was on an elevation and open all around.  A glacier could be viewed in the distance and Northern Lights were spotted here quite often on clear nights.

Actual photo of the explosive volcano and houses on fire from the museum

Bright and early the next morning we left for Vestmannaeyjar islands (often called Westman island by outsiders for simplicity).  These are a group of islands formed by underwater volcanic eruptions.  The largest one referred to as Heimaey was the one which had a very good population of about 4,300, significantly more than Vik,  and a fish cannimg/processing industry exporting mainly to Europe.  It also has two volcanoes and the huge eruption of the one named Eldfell led to the entire island being evacuated in 1973 and all but a few homes were destroyed.  Thankfully very few lives were lost it was stated. We learnt some facts and saw some special spots here thanks to our new driver, Gunnar, who was born and brought up in Heimaey.  He told us his grandmother’s house was one of the few left standing after the eruption that went on for months.

The bus from our hotel dropped us off after a long ride to the wharf from where we boarded the ferry.  This was a large boat with several levels and with indoor and outdoor seating.  It was a damp foggy day, so many opted to sit indoors.  I for one had two disappointments.  Firstly, I had been looking forward to seeing hundreds of puffins inhabiting the cliffs of the main island and learning how they nest and hatch babies.  They are one of the cutest birds being of a good size, black and white with a prominent yellow beak.  But they had migrated already to Greenland for the winter we were told.  We were also presumed after reading the itinerary that we would see Beluga whales in the ocean.  But we saw only a pair of white Beluga whales in captivity in a tank at a smallish sanctuary.  Here we also viewed about 4 puffins that were in need of care due to injuries.   So much for the animal viewing part of our visit.  Iceland in general seemed bereft of any wild animals.

From Westman Island: Another graphic photo of the volcano. Our girls try the rope endurance, some rustic abodes , an island nearby

The ferry ride was pleasant and as soon as we got off the boat, what hit us was a very strong smell of fish.  At first we thought it was due to them being caught but it was actually a processing plant that produced the smell.  Later we noticed it less or probably moved around to other parts of the island.  The fish processing plants, about 4 in number, provide fairly lucrative jobs to the residents of the island and the houses there were cute and colorful.  The residents led a satisfactory life according to Gunnar.

Gunnar took us to some special spots on the island, but as always, lunch took priority!  And what a change!  To the delight of the children (and many others) we had a variety lunch of pizza and pita wraps at a Mediterranean place.  It was freshly made and delicious.  The vegans had special ones made without cheese and everyone had their fill.  Right after, we viewed a wonderful museum dedicated to the big event of the island, the volcanic eruption.   It had beautifully illustrated exhibits and videos of the eruption as professional photographers had enough time to record the eruption event which was quite extended over months.  The unique part of it was that it was built around a house that was partially charred by the original lava flow.  We each got our headsets that explained things as we walked from room to room.  This was followed by Gunnar showing us an ancient fishing boat which was an anti-climax.   We still have these operating in many of our ports in India!

The drive through the island was green and scenic and we next came up to a rope firmly anchored to a mountainside.  This was some kind of rite of passage for young boys in training for climbing cliffs to harvest birds’ eggs.  They were taught to swing on it for strength and climb up to high ledges. Though the momentum could have bruised some legs, some of our youngsters were daring enough to try it.  Next, we saw a large stage and grassy slopes around it.  Here a music concert held in the summer where world caliber performers come and the whole town is out with their camping tents for overnight enjoyment.  How delightful!  After that we did a quick tour of other parts of the island and drove back to the jetty to board our boat.  We did view a few unusual  rock formations, one of which was shaped exactly like a large elephant, dipping into the sea.    On the return back we stopped by a supermarket and dabbled in small gifts and chocolates.  The Iceland chocolates for  discriminating tasters was pretty waxy and substandard compared to Swiss or Belgium chocolates.

Diamonds for the taking on Diamond Beach near Glacier Bay!

Our last day in the vicinity of Vik and southern Iceland was very exciting.  After our usual breakfast …. by the way, there was nothing usual about the hot Indian dish the Maharaj prepared for us to eat along with our toast and other Western buffet items daily.  The upuma, poha and vada- sambar on different days woke up our taste buds and in fact the rest of the tourists had to be turned away when they were attracted by the aroma!  We got Indian food, but not the run of the mill kind.  It was gourmet!  Yes, after our breakfast we headed for the Skaftafell National Park about two hours away.  Slowly the scenery changed from the moss-colored lava rocks to snow covered peaks in the distance and we spotted several glaciers too. We reached our destination and as always, our speedy lunch was set up while we watched a small documentary.  Amazing variety of food and delicious as always.  The real treats were yet to come, this time visual treats.  As we walked toward the bay, we could not believe our eyes. 

The breathtaking Jokusarlon Glacier Bay

The Jokusarlon `glacier lagoon was an amazing sight with huge blue ice chunks floating on the water, in an ever-changing arrangement of shapes and sizes.  It is approximately 18 square km we were told. The icebergs rotate in the water as they melt and sometimes black volcanic streaks are visible while at other times, they are pristine blue.  This has a  scientific explanation:  simply put, other colors of the spectrum except blue is absorbed by the icebergs.   We made our way up a small hill and viewed the entire bay, somewhat like a large lake with a big glacier flow visible at one edge.  We could not stop taking pictures with this wondrous backdrop. 

Amphibian boats

We were also taken on the lagoon itself in an amphibian boat with big tires that bumped over the land and gracefully slid into the water.  The hour-long ride to see the icebergs up close was memorable.

Our group on the Diamond Beach with Ashish and Gunnar

Last,  but not the least by any means was the Diamond beach.  Our guide had a mysterious look whenever he mentioned it and today, he said, go for it, “collect as many diamonds as you wish, they will be large and shiny”.  We were very intrigued!  No one wanted to stayed on the bus!!  We had a slightly difficult walk to the beach over the pebbles,  right across from Glacier lagoon, but we made it there.  And yes, there were huge sparkling “diamonds” lying around for the taking!  Men went ga ga and picked up the hunks and offered them to their wives.  Alas, the delight was short lived.   These diamonds were not “forever” as the ad says.   They barely lasted up to the bus because they were formed of transparent ice.  But the shapes and sparkle were unbelievable.  Oh well, it was fun while we played around with it!

The next day we took it easy, woke up late and after breakfast, packed up and boarded the bus back to Reykjavik.   On arrival we met our old Maharaj again who had made a nice lunch for us.   After that we headed for the airport after dropping off Mohan, Carol and the kids at an overnight hotel near the hot springs where they had planned  another dip that evening as their flight was the next morning.   We had flights to different destinations and waited a bit, but everything went smoothly and soon we were heading back home, thinking what a terrific time we had and packed in so many amazing sights and experiences in the short span of five nights.   Iceland is certainly worth a visit, especially if it is planned so very well as it was for our fortunate group by Lakshmi Travels.

Iceland Trip  Part 1                       Sep. 23-29, 2022                         Shamla Shankar

            We had a fantastic trip to Iceland, the land of Fire and Ice, thanks to meticulous planning by Lakshmi and her crew of providers in Reykjavik and Vik.  In brief, the sights, the travel, the food even the Northern Lights co-operated to give us the best experience and every member of our group was well satisfied.

            Someone once told me that Iceland is green and Greenland is full of ice!  The Iceland part was definitely true.  Though we were almost at the end of September, the weather held up and we had no issues with our moving around.  In general, islands get a lot of rain in the Northern hemisphere and there was some wind too, but we were not rained out.  Wearing layers of clothing, the temperatures were very bearable in the low 50s F.   As we drove around, especially between cities, the hills and valleys were so green and beautiful.  The landscape was ever changing and there were waterfalls every now and then to delight us.  When examined closely, the ground in most places was covered by volcanic rocks. In fact the entire island was created by volcanos and there are eruptions every now and then, even in the current year.

           In many countries we are usually warned not to drink the tap water.  In fact once we had to boil water in a kettle and cool it overnight just so we could brush our teeth.  Here all the water came from glaciers, waterfalls and lakes and tasted delicious.  We were encouraged to use tap water to drink and no one bought bottles of water.  We just filled up our own bottles where ever we liked, no restrictions!  As for food, it was one of the highlights of this travel destination.  No not local cuisine, but pucca desi food, every meal surpassing the previous ones.  As we joked, based on the popular Bollywood song, na na karte pyar tumhi se kar baithey …. We were consuming every meal, na na karte phir sey khana kha baitey! (Translation:  we say no no all the time but still keep eating over and over!)  Thanks entirely to the organizers.  There were two kitchens set up, one in Reykjavik and one in Vik.  A Rajasthani Maharaj was in charge of each of these.  Many groups came, ate and enjoyed.  It would have been tough had we been left to find local vegetarian cuisine. Kudos also to our tour leader Ashish who painstakingly transported our lunches in hot cases and we stopped at pre- arranged rest areas indoors to have our delicious warm food.  Ashish got us into the spirit of enjoyment and was so cheerful and caring about our needs, whims and requests.  Kudos to Ashish, one of the best leaders we have had!

Delicious Indian food on the go          

  We had taken overnight flights from various destinations in US like Newark, Boston, San Franciso and our flights came within short times of each other.  However the immigration lines were very long and it took a while to get organized, get our luggage and get on the bus.  Our local  driver Beachy (that’s what everyone called him) and guide Ashish met us and kept us engaged. The Grand Hotel Reykjavik lived up to its name and was huge and luxurious.  Our day tour guide, Viral,  seamlessly allotted our rooms We enjoyed the huge spread in the breakfast buffet and then went to our rooms and freshened up.  By noon our tour was starting, the first stop being lunch.  We enjoyed lunch on some days and dinner on most days at this hall.  Our hosts were friendly and hospitable and we all liked the food.  Special attention was paid to the needs of some of vegan members and the two children who were part of our group.

            Viral, a Gujarati, who did not seem to mind his name at all, especially in Covid times, was a young man who was friendly, articulate and knowledgeable.   He told us that a break-away group from Norway hunted out a new place to live and they found Iceland in 1000 A.D.  The meaning of the word Vik was a bay.  Norse was the language in use.  Now the majority of the population live in cities with very sparse habitation in few farms spread far and wide. As we drove around the town of Reykjavik,   Viral showed us some popular sights including a building where Reagan and Gorbachev met during cold war times, a metal Sun Voyager sculpture created in 1990 by Jon Gunnar Arnason. It was by the ocean that looked like the shell of a small ship used by Vikings. 

One of the numerous geysers in Iceland

We were by the ocean and wind had picked up.  Our next stop close by was the modern Opera House known as Harpa, built with beautiful 3D glass walls and ceilings  in 2011 We walked over and briefly entered took a look.  Reykjavik residents were great music lovers and many programs happened in the many theatres indoors.  Viral told us that  fishing and tourism were the two financially sustaining features of Iceland.  Some years ago, overfishing caused the industry to plummet till new rules were in place.  We were shown the original Parliament house still in good shape and located in a quiet area and then the really tall and lovely Hallsgrimkirkja church. It is an imposing 244 feet high edifice and completed in 1986 and functions as an active parish church.  The Lutheran religion is practiced in Iceland. The huge organ inside was awe inspiring.  An interesting fact is that in the large front yard of this imposing church is the statue of Leif Ericson, a Norse explorer who came in his armada of ships and among others discovered the north American continent and surrounding lands a thousand years ago during the Viking age of exploration.

              The highlight of the afternoon however was the Blue Lagoon.  Iceland is full of geo-thermal activity with hot springs.  This lagoon was manually created from the overflow of one such hot spring which is used for producing electricity.  It was huge, blue and hot and we loved these conditions.  The depth all around was less than four feet and it seemed huge.  Most of us were content to stay in the hot spots where the water was even warmer.  Some did explore all parts of the lagoon. The floor was smooth.  After some strict instructions with lockers (they had electronic wrist band keys which we wore throughout) and the showering we were finally in the over 100 degree water and could relax.  We could order a drink if we wanted and have it right there.  We were also provided with some white mud to put on our face and our guides joked that we looked years younger on our return to the bus.  The day ended with a delicious dinner of chappati, kadi, mix vegetable curries, and warm mohan taal halwa.

The Blue Lagoon hot springs bathing pool           

It had been a long day especially after our flight, and the warm lagoon at the end of the day soothed us and were ready to rest.  However, bad news was in store for us.  A storm was hitting the island overnight with rough winds and rain.  Buses and cars were often kept off the roads in such conditions and we resigned ourselves to spending the next day in the hotel. Next morning, we were enjoying the variety breakfast at the buffet when we got the news that winds had subsided and our day’s tour was on!  In keeping with the weather, with lightning speed we got ready, also remembering to grab our swimwear and towel as we were visiting another thermal bath at the end of the day.  We were pleasantly surprised that the wind and cold were bearable even at the open Pingvellir (also known as Thingvellir) national park, our first stop.  As they joke in Iceland, if you don’t like the weather, wait five minutes!  You could also see the four seasons in a day!   We all climbed a few steps to the viewpoint and had a good view of the scenic valley below, the park being approximately 35 square miles.   Then we were given the option to walk the mile or so through a canyon protected by tall walls of rock formations with occasional view points.   Some of us enjoyed that walk and met the bus which had driven down.  The rock formations as well as the foliage growing on it was amazing and colorful.  It is close to a tectonic area that could threaten to break Iceland in two pieces  at some future date in history. 

Pingvellir National Park

Today we were taking the Golden Circle tour and each stop was varied and exciting.  Next up after a short drive was Geysir, (the geyser). Did you know that the word geyser was derived from this word?   It spouted to a good height every five minutes so there was no FOMO (fear of missing out!).  Some of us even got a warm dousing as the wind turned a spray our way.  But we were given enough time to point our cameras in the right direction and capture a good picture or a video.  Along the path there were mini geysers too that were constantly bubbling and the water flowing away in a stream. I believe most of the electricity used is thermal.

Typical scenery in Iceland          

  Gull Foss (The Golden Falls) was a beautiful sight to behold, both from the viewing point as well as up close after a climb down the steps and a wet path.  It is a waterfall located in the canyon of the Hvita river. Though the falls were not too high, said to be 105 feet,  the volume of the gushing waters over several levels made for a pretty sight.  At the bottom one could get really close to the water flowing over the rocks, but only some of the group braved the steps and the wet trails to do this.  It was a great video opportunity to build our memories.

Some of our tour mates            

The Gull Foss (Golden Falls)

The last stop for the day was yet another hot springs relaxation dip in the thermal waters.   Here the set up was a little different.  On the whole the stress for the ladies was less getting ready as we were not being instructed and monitored so much like Blue Lagoon. (Can’t say we blamed them there as the volume of visitors there is amazing).  Here at the Fontana Thermal baths, it was on a smaller scale with some rectangular pools lined with ceramic tiles and one larger natural area which had many huge stones in it, to be avoided carefully.  There were some convenient stone benches to sit inside the water.   The gradation of the temperature was also varied from mild to hot in different pools so all ages could enjoy.  We of course occupied the hottest pool, drove out other visitors with our loud and boisterous talk in Tamil and had the place to ourselves to take pictures and enjoy.

  We finished off our dip with a hot sauna and headed for the coffee lounge area after about an hour and a half.  We must have improved the economy of Iceland at least with our coffee purchases!   Truly these two thermal bath experiences were amazing, hard to believe that the water was heated naturally from the ground and totally relaxing at the end of a day of amazing sight- seeing.

Glimpse of Northern Lights. From travel mate’s camera a big green streak           

No matter how beautiful Iceland is in many respects, the first question one asks you is “did you see the Northern Lights?”  Our answer is Yes! But …..the whole outing to view them was an adventure.  Finding the sky to be clear of clouds, our tour leader, Ashish arranged for us to travel a short distance by bus to a place the driver found to be appropriate for viewing.  It was at a mild elevation and the night sky was clear.  We pulled up to the side of a road that was not highly traversed by traffic and got out.  Many of us were seeing the entire beauty of a starry night after a very long time in its full  360 degrees glory, with twinkling stars.  We waited patiently and soon what appeared to be a large dusky arc of cloud made its way slowly across the sky.  The movement was almost imperceptible.  Suddenly everyone was shouting and squealing like children and posing for photos.  Lo and behold, in the pictures the definite streaks of emerald green were clearly visible much to our delight.  We had managed to capture ourselves in photos with the Northern Lights!   Apparently, at night our  vision in the darkness cannot really register colors unless the visibility of the N. Lights is at its higher spectrum.  In a scale of 1 to 9 we were told the night sky was displaying only 3 that day.  But it was magical enough for us.   At another location and a different place, some of our travel pals had a better viewing late at night right from their hotel room windows and they captured some photos for us.  The more recent the model of the IPhone, the better the pictures!

In the interest of savoring every moment of our trip and its unique sights, I am concluding this first part of our visit.  Hope to send Part 2  in a week or two.  Meanwhile, do review your photos and relive these wonderful memories!  After my writing is complete, I plan to post it with appropriate photos on my Travel Blog (travelswithshamla.wordpress.com) in which our unique experiences with Lakshmi Travels in every country we visited, is detailed with photos.    I will alert you all when its done!  Thanks for reading!

Hello World
Turkey Oct. 2011
Israel Oct. 2011
Africa Part 1 August 2012
Africa Part 2 August 2012
Far East – Vietnam & Laos Nov. 2013
Touring Thailand Nov. 2013
Cambodia and Bali Nov. 2013
Peru … Machu Picchu Part 1 Oct. 2014
Peru … Machu Picchu Part 2 Oct. 2014
New Zealand Part 1 April 2015
New Zealand & Fiji Part 2 April 2015
Australia Down Under Part 3 April 2015
China Part 1 Sep/Oct 2016
China Part 2 Sep/Oct 2016
Tibet Sep/Oct 2016
Japan Part 1 Sep/Oct 2016
Japan Part 2 Sep/Oct 2016
Our Himalayan Retreat for Body, Mind, Soul March 2017
Sicily & Southern Italy Sep. 2017
Italy Part 2 Sep. 2017
Hawaii — Maui Part 1 Feb. 2019
Hawaii — Kauai Part 2 Feb. 2019
Switzerland Part 1 Sep. 2019
Austria, Budapest and Prague Part 2 Sep. 2019

Iceland Part 1  Sep 2022

Iceland Part 2  Sep 2022

Amsterdam & Tulip Gardens April 2024

Visit to Switzerland, Austria, Budapest and Prague Part 2

September 2019

We had heard so much about the Glacier Express! Imagine, it was first started in 1830. It pretty much snakes through a major part of the south of Switzerland making its way toward Austria. Our last destination in Switzerland was St. Moritz and that’s where we were heading. The journey itself was a full eight hours, but we also had to factor in about 5 hours of wait and a train change. Fortunately we could go into the small town of Brig and have our lunch and walk around a bit.

The Glacier Express

The Glacier Express must have, at some distant point in history,  gone through areas which included glaciers, but currently it was all pastoral scenery! There were mountains, lakes, waterfalls and interesting villages.  No complaints from me on that point because the famed fantastic views of nature was the reason I wanted to see this country. This was a great opportunity to soak in the scenery as they say! We were a captive audience inside that train, but what comfort even in the economy class! The seats faced each other with a small table in between conducive to opening up and distributing our snacks. We could even walk to the dining car and buy coffee there and to our surprise (or not!) we found some people of Indian origin working. We chatted with them. The scenery was spectacular and ever changing. Now some stark mountains, now meadows, cows grazing and the small towns with their nicely set homes and churches on the hillsides.

Beautiful views from Glacier Express

Outdoor in Brig, Gelato tasting

We got off the train at Brig for the long halt, leaving our small suitcases in the locker. As we walked up the old cobblestone streets, we met a nun with whom we took a picture. She said she had worked in India and was looking forward to going back. Since we had leisure time we chatted and later saw the outer courtyard of an old church and the palace. We were allowed into the gardens and spent time walking around and sitting on the parapet wall in the sunshine, truly enjoying the leisure time. The garden had some exotic trees and what seemed like a fruit equivalent of chow chow or chayote! We had several options for a vegetarian lunch and chose pizza again, it was safe and meat free. This time there was no talk of not sharing. We could do as we pleased and we sat at the sunny picnic tables on the sidewalk, watching the passing tourists and town people. After that we were all treated to yummy gelato by Shankar. Back at the station, we had some anxious minutes as our onward booking could not be located on their system But in the end, all was well and we boarded the scheduled train in time and continued our onward journey.

Sparkling displays

Svarovski Outdoors

When we reached St. Moritz (could not say finally as no one felt the fatigue of the long day!) we got off the train quickly and were glad to see Madana Gopal!  No this was not a one man Indian reception committee but our driver, Milos, re-named.  After that the name stuck and we had ample opportunities to grumble about him.  Though he was a very good driver, never rash or speeding, he had a grumpy attitude now and then, especially when he had to do the job of the tour manager, figuring out where the Indian restaurants were.  But then we found some of the local guides to be of similar ilk!  After a Swiss dinner not worth remembering, we went to our Hotel, Crystal Hotel Superior in St. Moritz located on a slopey part of the town.   We were out early the next day and did a brief tour of Innsbruck, a picturesque town with colorful buildings and mountains in the distance.

Austrian Crystals, Glittering Swarovski Museum

After the tour we were taken to restaurant Nue Delhi restaurant for lunch.  This was one of the very best on our tour so far and absolutely delicious.   We were served well prepared vegetable dishes, fresh Indian breads, rice, yogurt and lovely desert of gulab jamun and mango ice cream.   We truly appreciated this meal and as it turned out, more of our coming meals were non-Indian .  We spoke to the owners who have been operating the restaurant over a long period of time and it was popular with the tours as well as locals.   We were now going into Austria and did not even notice we had crossed any border!  Our next big stop was the Swarovski museum in Wattens!  The outside displays were eye catching, with a huge face made with foliage on the mountainside and glittering eyes!  Their location too was very scenic with meadows and mountains.  Every group was sort of forced to see their displays, very grand but not really significant!   It had little to do with the kind of crystal they sell.   When we asked one of the sales people why there was no info on how crystal was made, they said they could not give away their secrets!  Like we were going to go home and start making our own crystals!

The glittering crystal wall

Anyway it was a fun outing on a crisp end of summer day and when we were let into the salesroom, everyone went beserk!  For one thing the prices were more reasonable than what we expected, though not dirt cheap.   The main reason for the shopping spree was that these were cute well made momentos in silver and crystal that we could easily carry for our family and as predicted they were loved by the younger generation who seem to be “allergic” to gold jewellery!  There was an equally long line for the coffee which was mediocre but gave the shot of caffeine much needed after the heavy lunch and hectic shopping spree!  After a quick inspection of the grounds we were ready to board the bus.

The hotel was quite a drive away at night  and the dinner that preceded was not worth remembering.  The usual soup and strudel.   But those who were nearly dozing off had a rude awakening!   Our destination was Salzburg, the hotel Sommerhof.  We got off the bus, noisily trying to identify our suitcases from which we had been separated for a few days and figuring out who we needed to talk to regarding our rooms when a lady came out and yelled at us.  It seems we were at a family hostel with young kids sleeping and were creating a racket past 10 p.m.!   The manager’s anger was justified but she need not have shushed us like anyone would a bunch of toddlers.   Appears that no one had contacted her about our delay in arriving and she had to make several long distance calls to no avail.   The next day many in our group made it their duty to speak to the lady and tell her that her rudeness was unacceptable.  The bonus with the family style living was that we had very spacious quarters, rustic Swiss furniture and a different ambiance.   The down side was that we had to drive back to Innsbruck,  the route we had travelled the previous night, for 45 minutes!

The Famous Sound of Music Gazebo

Indu in one of the lovely gardens

Sound of Music Legend,  the “You are sixteen” Gazebo               

With the weather so nice, we did not care about the additional drive.  Everyone was excited about the Sound of Music displays which is what Salzburg is remembered for.  However it did not really live up to my expectations.  I would rather have seen the mountains where the “Hills were alive” song was picturized,  but we were shown some gardens and the famous original Gazebo where the romantic songs were sung including “You are Sixteen going on Seventeen”.  It had been moved there from the sets.  Our tour guide told us that the famous Edelweiss flower (recall the beautiful song  of the same name from the movie) had become so rare that it was grown in special areas and only used for proposals!   He also spun off a long story about the real Von Trapp family who it seems later moved to the United States, had three more children and went through the vicissitudes of fortunes, he went to prison and finally she opened a bed and breakfast or restaurant.  Maria lived for 40 more years after the Captain died as she was 25 years younger than him.

We went on a fairly elaborate walking tour into the city of Salzburg where famous areas were pointed out to us.   Doppler (who is now famous for medical photography) and of course the inimitable Mozart both belong to this  town.  In fact we were outside the house where Mozart was born.   Everything was named after him, most famously some ball chocolates with marzipan centers that everyone was hunting for, but tastewise it was mostly sugar!  On the other hand, sitting in a café in the town square and sipping coffee on that sunny day was what our trip was all about, enjoying good company and relaxing.

Vienna, Mozart & Schonbrunn Palace

Next on the itinerary were three very impressive cities, Vienna, Budapest and Prague.  We were given enough of a break in each destination and had a relaxed time at the same time covering the important landmarks.  Our guide told us that Vienna itself had walls to protect it from the Turks at one time.  The Danube river  ran through the city and sometimes flooded it so the city centers were located away from it.   The Alps also ended here and this phenomenon was actually visible in the topography!  We saw the curved UN building.  Our lady guide, Giuseppina herself explained that the locals had “a bark that was worse than their bite” and her own behaviour made this obvious.  She made the poor injured ones in our group walk a lot without really spelling out the distances.  The highlight of Vienna was the impressive Schonbrunn palace. It featured the life of the queen Maria Theresa who ruled the land while she bore 16 children. The palace itself was in mint condition.  The gold trim work was constantly being renewed and there were beautiful huge paintings on walls and ceilings, reminiscent of the Vatican city. One mural in particular caught our attention, for as our guide explained, Mozart had been photoshopped (painted in)  as being present in an event that occurred where he was not present.  He was shown as a four year old but he met Maria Theresa only when he was six!   We marvelled the portraits, parlours and glass panels and gilded work, so much to take in.   Furniture from the days of yore were also saved.  The gardens outside were  so symmetrical and beautiful and there was even a zoo there possibly designed with the view of keeping all the children who lived there entertained.   It is rumoured that all but one daughter had a marriage of convenience to expand the empire.

For a change we had lunch at Rani Restaurant, another of the tour group caterers, but I guess it was good to our palates hankering for Indian food.   The drive after Vienna was so different, land was flat, gone were were the sloping meadows and greenery.   Corn, it appears was one of the few crops grown.  Out hotel was located in a prime main street of Budapest,  but the downside was that we had to drag our suitcases for a block on the bumpy sidewalk as the bus was not allowed to stop in front of it.  Reminded us of many other tours where we had to do this at least once! Budapest we found was actually two cities, one on the flat land and one in the elevations.  Buda seemed to have all the important official buildings.  We were to take a cruise on the river Danube and due to the traffic in Buda, our driver was almost an hour late.  We grumbled at first, but later on the cruise realized it was really a blessing – we could view the beautiful city by the evening daylight as well as by night when the glorious lights came on.   It was a gorgeous, unforgettable sight, it totally spoilt us for any other city.  In fact I for one was  not even that  impressed with Prague after seeing Buda and Pest. 

Beautiful Pest part of City

The next day we were driven by bus to see the Pest part of the city and with its high elevation, fabulous views and the castle like structures,  old church and buildings totally won us over.  By request we also drove to the nearby location of a statue that had intrigued us earlier (it could be seen from Buda).  It was of a lady carrying aloft a palm frond, signifying liberty.

In Budapest we were taken to many Indian restaurants for lunch and dinner, probably because the local food did not lend itself to vegetarianism.  The approach to many in small lanes was difficult as the bus could not go in and the walk was long, hard for those with leg pain, but we somehow managed.   On the last day we also were taken to the countryside for a Hungarian horsemanship show, okay but not nearly as interesting as the elephant show we saw in Thailand.  We went for a ride in a horse buggy as well.  Later the driver dropped us off at a shopping plaza and those who had not had their fill of chocolates or Swarovski crystals made a beeline again for those stores.

Horsemanship Show and Last of the Alps

Next morning we were off to Prague by road with a stopover and lunch at Bratislava.  Since Czech and Slovakia have now been separated, we got a glimpse of both.  Thanks to a guide who knew exactly what to tell us (and briefly!) we saw things of interest to us like the plaque put up in downtown to commemorate a visit by Nehru and Indira Gandhi even before the Indian independence when they visited many countries to study their political systems.   This was a Kodak moment all right!  Next we had lunch in a former palace known as Hradna Hviezda  (strudel had now given way to risotto!)  The pumpkin risotto was akin to pongal and the puliogare mix did help to spice it up!  We had an area to ourselves with a large table and enjoyed the ambiance.

By nightfall we arrived at Prague and of course had to go straight to dinner.   The location of the restaurant however made up for our complaints.  Right by the river the walk was glittering and glorious in the dusk.   The climb down to the riverside restaurant was fairly steep but we made it.  The dinner?  Risotto again!  But with a not so pleasant surprise – each pile of rice had a poached egg on top sunnyside down.  At first we thought it was cheese but to our dismay it was discovered to be egg!   Some ordered pasta instead (why they did not give us that in the first place is a mystery!) but the rest of us ate around the egg and called it a day!

The bus tour of Prague and the visit to the castle is all a vague memory now.   There were parts of that castle that were relics from olden times.   We did not really go into the proper castle, just outside it.   Later we visited the town square where among other things we were shown the beautiful astronomical clock as it struck 12 noon.  Quite a sight as the picture will testify.   This was followed by a chocolate shop visit (again over-hyped and priced but taste wise nothing spectacular!).  But we gave enough business to the owner and probably a nice cut went to the guide.  Again we spent some time in the shopping districts but no significant purchases were made by and large. Our next two meals were at Indian restaurants.

The trip was over the next day as we proceeded early to the airport to catch our flight back to the USA and all in all it was a pretty perfect trip with enough mix of countries, cities, impressive and world famous mountains, countryside, meadows and plenty of train and bus rides.  

September 2019

Visit to Switzerland, Austria, Budapest and Prague Part 1

We are all familiar with the quotation, “If there be a heaven on earth, it is this, it is this, none but this” attributed to Mughal emperors who talked about Kashmir, but I would like to apply it to Switzerland! Truly, the people who live here permanently are the chosen ones, drinking in with their eyes the rolling green hills, the meadows with tinkling cowbells and each house set on the hillside, a haven of peace and quietitude. Opening their windows day after day and finding that amazing sight, hearing the muted sound of cowbells and breathing in pure fresh air who would not be in an otherworldly state of bliss? Truly on this tour I for one re-lived my childhood love for the book Heidi who comes from the city to stay with her grandfather in the Swiss mountains and recuperate her health. As a bonus she discovers how fabulous simple village life is.

Sigh! We do not have a home there, but at least we were blessed with a comprehensive visit that can live on with us for a long long time. Our thanks to Lakshmi tours for honoring our request and arranging this amazing tour. The gods did smile on us and though it was mid September, the grass was still an amazing green, the weather balmy and not a drop of rain except on the last day. Even at the high altitudes of the Matterhorn viewing stations, we did not need our heavy jacket or scarves and instead posed for pictures in our regular clothes as we basked in the sun.
Where to begin? At the beginning where it all started, at Zurich airport. But wait! Shankar and I were able to sneak in two days ahead and enjoy the meadows and cow bells! We arrived at Zurich, stowed our big suitcases in the baggage storage and took a train to Appenzell, to the north and east of the city. He had planned all this to fulfill my dream of just staying for 24 hours in the Swiss countryside. Knowing the European train systems, our adventure went smoothly and after taking a two hour ride with one change we landed up in Appenzell, a small town close to Zurich. Out hotel had arranged for a van to pick us up from the train station and we were surprised to find the hotel to be on a hill, about 15 minutes away from the small town. It was a comfy old Inn but very clean and the people were very friendly. I had planned on having instant upma and poha for dinner, but they talked us into enjoying the restaurant where they promised to make vegetarian soup and cheese fondue! As you can see in the picture, it was amazing as was the ice cream desert that followed.   

Fondue!

Desert

The time spent in Appenzell and going up nearby Ebenalp by cable car is the dream of a lifetime that will always remain with me. We also learnt that each property owner had to keep his hillside lawn mowed and that’s what made the meadows and Switzerland so beautiful! Of course cows also helped! The view from Ebenalp was spectacular and we witnessed some hang gliders!

Zurich and Lucerne

We joined the group at the airport the next day (by catching another train from our Zurich overnight hotel) and it was all smooth after we had picked up our main luggage. We had all been allotted a very large and comfy bus and our luggage stowed very easily underneath in the spacious bus and the best part was that we had this bus and driver till the last day. Well, having the same driver was maybe not the best part, but more on that later. For the present we were on our way to do a quick bus tour of Zurich and head for Lucerne for lunch. Another small group of ours had come a day ahead and they had enjoyed the sights of Zurich.

We were all hungry and ready for the Indian lunch and throughout Switzerland, we were very happy with the Indian restaurants. They were all very clean, organized and the food was delicious and plentiful. The fact that we lived on panneer, alu and rice had to be faced as the menu hardly ever changed (we requested and got paalak a few times and a questionable chaat once but dosa and idlis were a distant dream that only return home or visit to Edison could take care of!) No matter, we did justice to the food offered and it fuelled us for our almost 5 miles of walking everyday! We loved the yogurt that was plentiful and delicious.

Famous wooden bridge

Beautiful Swans

At Lucerne we had two nights as we did at most of our stops, so we had a leisurely view of the lake with its breathtaking scenery and lovely swans. We got our opportunity to actually ride a boat on it the next day to reach the starting point of Mt. Pilatus. Here we took our first cog wheel train up the mountain. The tourist department is so well organized, they had groups on the side away from the main lines and gave us priority.

The train easily tackled the steep hillside and as we made our way up on that beautiful sunny day, every fiber in our body thanked the powers that be for putting us in that place at that perfect time with views that put a stop to all our random thoughts and worries. This thoughtlessness persisted throughout our tour making it all spiritual and fun at the same time! We returned by cable car and had a shorter bus ride back to Lucerne. The old wood bridge in Lucerne was a big attraction and we happily traversed it by foot learning about its history. Our group had only 16 people so that added to the camaraderie and familiarity. The infusion of “young blood” with the presence of Chitra and KK, rejuvenated us plus Chitra was ever willing to make calls to restaurants and tackle some of the queries in flawless Hindi and a charming attitude that won everyone over. That evening we had another boat ride, this time with commentary ear phones pointing out important buildings and castles on shore.

Rhine Falls and Black Forest region

Coffee was expensive all over and not up to par. But we were attracted like bees to honey whenever we encountered chocolate. We visited one shop on the way out of Lucerne, unfortunately a bit late for its tour but the café and store was open for us to browse and buy. The hot chocolate was unique, a mug of hot milk with a rod of chocolate that you stir in. Yummy! Bright and early the next morning we were heading to Rhine Falls, considered one of the most powerful falls in Europe. Though the height was not much where we viewed it, the thunderous cascade of water more than made up for it. We could also walk down a built up trail or take a glass elevator to very close to the water and view the amazing rock formations that the water had etched in the middle of the water. Only the picture attached can describe it! On to Titisee Lake and the region of the Cuckoo clocks. Though exclusive stores seemed to be less now, many shoppers still showed a lot of interest in this ancient clock making art. The lake was placid and lovely too and we had a fusion lunch of burgers and pulao and walked around the tourist locations.

Jungfrau, a Palace of Ice

That night we reached Grindelwald and had a welcome spaghetti dinner at Bebees! The sauce made from fresh tomatoes and red peppers was delectable. Fondue was ordered for tasting too but alas we were too late for the other shops. The inn at Grindelwald was considerably away from the small town and up a small mountain. This time the Inn had character (some commented the bathroom was bigger than the bedroom!) But the views of the mountains and the village on the green slopes in the distance more than made up for any shortcomings. We had our own balcony and in addition could go for a walk in the morning and breathe in the fresh mountain air.
Talking about mountains, Switzerland is full of them and to our benefit we were scheduled to visit three of the most famous ones. Mount Pilatus we had already seen and Jungfrau Joch (the young woman mountain) and the renowned Matterhorn were on our list. Jungfrau often referred to as the top of Europe was at an elevation of over 11,000 feet. Our train left from Grindelwald for a two hour ride and we had two changes at Lauterbrunnen and Klein Scheidegg.

Conquering Jung Frau!

Ice cave and sculptures

Snow outside

The ample windows of the trains let us take lovely pictures, see the scenery and also the few hikers. As we ascended the scene became more wintery with large tracts of snow akin to glaciers flowing downward. Later I found out that Aletsch glacier is Europe’s largest. At the top it was a bit commercial but we had to look past the hordes of tourists and enjoy nature. We were right away ushered away to eat lunch at Bollywood restaurant, which was geared to serve huge batches of mainly Indian tourists from all parts of the world. As expected food was so so. But the views were great! At a distance we could see the adventurous ones trying their hand at winter sports in a flat area. Snow is a big attraction for those from tropical countries like India. Not us! We did go around the cave ice palace with its animal sculptures of ice and were rudely shocked to find the floor too was made of ice! Who could afford a fall at our age? Thankfully we all made it thru okay, partly due to the single railing running all along the exhibit wall to which we held on for dear life! The ever present Lindt shop had some displays as well. Some of us also ventured outside to take a picture on the snow with the Swiss flag and caught a glimpse of the scientific lab building, a popular ID of the great Jungfrau.

Interlaken and Yash Chopra Statue
Our driver did us a favor and showed us a bit of Interlaken, famed for the Bollywood movies. We were on the quest for Yash Chopra’s statue with which the town had honored him and accidentally ran into it outside a casino with beautiful grounds. Seeing a crowd of Indians there was a sure sign! He had been made a honorary citizen of the town. Interlaken means two lakes with the town in between!

The lakes ran for miles on either side and I suppose an aerial view would have been better but we had a good time stopping at one shore briefly. That night the dinner was a big disappointment. Our Golden India restaurant had two branches and we were at the wrong one. After much debating we ended up at the right one only to be served veggie burgers! We were also given no soft drink and on top of it an argument that we were served free water.

Zermatt — A Traffic Free Town

The arrival in Zermatt was a pleasant half a day of train travel. Firstly we said goodbye to our coach for the time being. We sent our big suitcases ahead and packed a small one for Zermatt for this was the famed town with no traffic or vehicles on the street, except a few mini golf cart like transport.

Our train was from Interlaken, this time a long wait. However the surrounding hills were so pretty, dotted with Swiss homes, that we whiled away time taking pictures. As before, the train seats were comfortable and clean and with the two train changes at Berna and Visp, we were at our destination well within daylight hours. Zermatt was a pretty town with one main street and our luxurious Hotel Schweizerhof was on it.

Zermatt

Enjoying Pina Colada

Swiss Chocolate Making

We walked from the station and some of us did lunch on our own. The restaurant we visited (we were hankering for pizza!) insisted that each person eats a full pie. They would not let us order larger pizzas to share! Really strange! Was it to fatten us or fatten their wallets? For the dinner we had a walk up a lot of steps to a small hilltop and were served hot soup, mashed potatoes au gratin and delicious green beans. I the desert was a flan type of custard. The word strudel, served the next day, became a dreaded word as we made our way through Austria, Budapest and Prague, but more on that later! Everyone enjoyed the two days in Zermatt, walking around, shopping at the stores and buying watches and souvenirs. It was the leisure time we were craving and this time we got it! In the evening we relaxed in the lounge enjoying a pina colada, virgin of course!

Our group at Matterhorn

The famous peak

Visit to Matterhorn

The visit to the Matterhorn was icing on the cake though to our regret no one ever gave us cake for desert! At breakfast, our tour leader Lakshmi showed us a gold tinged sunrise picture of famous Matterhorn mountain peak from her room window to whet our appetite. Again the cog wheel train ride was amazing, taking us through rugged mountains and meadows, pine trees and waterfalls, the vistas always a little different from the last ride. The train made several stops for hikers to get off or on. At one high point the clouds were covering up the view but when we reached the destination, we were above the clouds, the sun burst out, it was crystal clear! The higher we got, the more the variety with views of glaciers, mountain peaks and fluffy clouds. We got the most amazing first glimpse of the famed Matterhorn at Gornergrat where we alighted. We were not on it but could get a great view of it. As mountains go, it can rank in the top ten in the world so far as leaving a lasting impression, my opinion. The sea of clouds below was like “deva loka” (abode of gods) as they sometimes depict in Bollywood movies! We had plenty of leisure time to wander around, climb to higher view points, admire the mars-like terrain – in particular a small cobalt blue lake forming a tiny crater in the rocky ridges.

We could go back to the hotel on any train. I think the Matterhorn experience outdid the Jungfrau, for the sheer naturalness and lack of commercial gimmicks. Again, my opinion!

So far the visit was going beautifully for most of us. Unfortunately, Kamakshi encountered some knee and leg pain problems right after the plane journey into Zurich and by the time we were in Lucerne she was in a lot of pain, even thinking of cancelling rest of the trip and going back. Fortunately she made it through with ice compresses and Advil, but had to sit in the bus and miss many walking parts of the trip. Later in the tour Lakshmi also had leg pain and had to be careful. At Zermatt we were joined by Indu and Gopal and that further enlivened our group.
So this was the first part of our trip and turned out to be fan…tas…tic!! Switzerland lived up to its fame and no one was disappointed. Forthcoming was our Glacier Express all day train ride, re-uniting at St. Moritz with our bus, luggage and driver, seeing parts of Austria, shopping like crazy and making Swarovski’s stock go up, going into the fabulous cities of Buda and Pest, making a pit stop at Bratislava and finding that Nehru and Indra Gandhi had been there before us! Ah, but we need details and pictures, don’t we? So stay tuned for the second part on our continuing adventure tour.

Visit to Maui and Kauai, Hawaii

February 2019

I might have mentioned this in my last report on Hawaii, it was really refreshing to find original Hawaiian names for all regions and streets. Most beaches, even if owned by hotels, were accessible to locals and tourists. The weather variations in this group of islands is so common that one part could be drenched in rain for many months of the year and others regions could be parched. The Haleakela volcano region at 10,000 feet is said to have a moonlike feeling with the crater basin and surroundings having an other worldly feel to it.
As for food in Hawaii, most restaurants specialised in seafood. Poi, a taro root was also popular, in fact it is the first solid food given to babies here. Palm trees, plenty of banana plants happily exist close to areas that had woods of pines or similar evergreens, an odd sight indeed.

After bidding goodbye to Maui we caught the short flight to Kauai. We had decided on visiting only two islands and make it enjoyable for ourselves. The flight was very pleasant with views of blue ocean dotted with green islands. Kauai is also known as the Garden Isle and on our drive to our resort from Lihue airport on the eastern part of the island to the north, we could see how unspoilt it was. Very rarely did we see any big stores, malls or shopping plazas and these we were told were limited to the southern end of the island. The population was also very low. We had booked at a resort this time and it did not disappoint. Although it did not have access to the beach being perched on a cliff, they did have a free van service to transport people to another resort with a beach and the kids made good use of it on several occasions. The views more than made up for this deficiency. Got to hand it to my savvy daughter to get our rooms changed from ground floor to a room with a balcony and view! Situated right next to a golf course with the blue ocean in the background, all one needed to do was sit out on the balcony and soak in the scene.

One of the Oldest Inhabited Hawaiian Island   

It is one of the oldest of the inhabited islands. The beaches have lava rocks from volcanoes now dormant . The waves, we were told could go from placid to monstrous making it a good destination for pro surfers. Many parts, including the Napali coast is approachable only by boat or helicopter. Of course Kauai earned its fame after the filming of the realistic Dinosaur movie, Jurassic Park and we were able to view the famous waterfall where the helicopter hovers before landing for all that impossible adventure! As for that coast, it is a miracle of nature, the mountains in folds as if it was a fabric and some of it so deep that helicopters can go right into it!

The famous  Iraivan temple of Kauai 
As the children kept busy relaxing and participating in some of the group activities or swimming in the large pool, we decided to head out the next day to see the famous Iraivan Temple, also known as Kauai’s Hindu monastery. It has been around since 1970 and thriving. Its founder was Satguru Sivaya Subramuniyaswami also known as Gurudeva who, though of American origin, studied spirituality extensively in South India and founded this order. Presently Satguru Bodhinatha Veylanswami, also of American origin, is in charge of running the monastery. Shankar and I set up an appointment by email to meet Satguru and had a pleasant half hour session with him during our visit.

Om Pool

Lush tropical setting

The lush tropical property of the temple and its Om pool

The property owned by the monastery is an extensive 382 acres and a beautiful woodland complete with exotic flora and fauna and a small waterfall and stream at the foot of an extinct volcano. The monks residing here from many parts of the world are all male although the female volunteers come in during the day to guide the visitors who flock to see the pristine property and the two beautiful temples, one yet to be completed. The Kadavul temple, dedicated to Lord Ganesha and other deities, starts its morning puja at 5.30 a.m. A really large 39 inch tall spatika (transparent crystal) lingam is revered with abhisheka and slokas. This was found naturally on American soil and gifted to the temple. It will later be moved to the main temple now under construction. As in other south Indian temples, a large Nandi of black granite keeps vigil for the beautiful Lord Shiva in the form of a massive panchaloka metal Nataraja whose size and beauty takes one’s breath away. The monks also publish a high level spiritual publication incorporating Hindu religion and philosophy known as Hinduism Today. The monks grow food (given Hawaii’s beautiful climate, this is all year around one presumes), host pilgrims, guide seekers and maintain temple areas, maintain websites and publish.

The new temple, the Iraivan temple itself is being built over an extended time according to the shilpa sastras and hand carved inch by inch. Some of the sculptings are done in India. A special feature is many sayings from scriptures like Bhagavad Gita being carved on all its sides for posterity to live with timeless principles. The purpose of its slow completion is explained as building it for future generations, a solid structure which will fulfill its purpose with spiritual messages. But progress is visible in the work as the shilpis from India chip away even as visitors wander around. Gold leaf is already on its traditional domes, lending it a shimmering touch. The pavilion, open to three sides is a hallmark of peace amidst the jungle setting. Of notable mention is the bamboo forest and the Rudraksha trees grove, many plants and trees like bilva, neem, amla and sandalwood cultivated to provide the variety and sacredness to the property and complete the Indian touch.

In its gardens surrounding the temple, there are beautiful statues, notable of which is Dakshinamurthy, the south facing incarnation of Shiva, the original teacher who conveys wisdom through silence. In the gardens also are the original stone formation of lingas which initially inspired the building of the temple.

Morning Walks

Shankar and I found a beautiful path for our daily morning walk. We walked along another golf course, this time with mountains for the backdrop. Of course our walking had to be interrupted by picture taking sessions as the scenery was too good! Along the way we admired the flowering hedges and the plants that just thrived in the Hawaiian soil and weather.

Kauai did lack in Indian restaurants in the area where we were housed, but the ice cream store nearby more than made up for it! Fortunately we discovered it only two days before departure after eating at a delectable Italian restaurant. The freshly made giant waffle cones dipped in dark chocolate housed the creamiest ice cream in mouth watering flavors. We ate and we promptly went back the next day to ingest thousands more calories, but no one was counting.

Thrilling Helicopter Ride
The highlight of the visit for the grown ups was the thrilling helicopter ride. We have been on other rides before but this one was the most comprehensive, covering the entire island and taking us to such remote mountaintops where the heart starts pounding just thinking of “what if?” But the pilots were super experts besides being great commentators. The island is very mountainous and went over forests and mountains and flew past the beautiful waterfalls featured in the Jurassic Park. The Napali coast was the most beautiful with green mountains in folds, touched with red foliage and the sun shining on the blue blue seas where whales were frolicking.
So to conclude, our glimpse of Hawaii was fascinating, still an unspoilt gem that is a part of the developed USA. The journey may be long, but who among us has not flown to India or the Far East? The destination is surely worth the travel. Thanks family for making this happen!

September 2017

Visit to Sicily and  Italy, Part 2

Reggio Calabria, Long Boardwalk

Our first stop in mainland Southern Italy was Reggio Calabria. Right on the ocean, it appears to be a tourist spot developed over the centuries. We went straight for lunch and enjoyed a hot risotto with pumpkin. Similar to our khichdi or pongal, it was an enjoyable change from pasta. The restaurant was a very picturesque setting and with our hunger satisfied, we all set about taking group photos in the landscaped gardens by the ocean.
Our guide met us and took us for a long walk on the promenade which was maintained in great condition. It had all been re-built after a major earthquake in 1908. One could either walk on the higher level or right by the ocean. Both afforded lovely views. However, our guide did not give us the option of lingering. We walked all the way to the end and then branched off into the town to see the cathedral from outside. All stores were closed for the afternoon, so we walked back to the hotel, checked in and rested, vowing to come back for evening views and cappuccino. The Athena statue was inspiration enough to sit on the steps and just talk or be silent. We gazed out to the sea as so many eyes must have over the centuries and marvelled at the creation of that unseen hand as well as talented humans.

Lunch in a Large Cave
We headed next morning for Matera, a long drive but extremely pleasant with pastoral scenery again. We stopped by a fruit stand as the bus filled up on gas and took pics of the long strands of red peppers. We had finally learnt the name of red pepper, pepperoncino, so essential for spicing up our food! Matera was a unique town and we had lunch actually in a cave! Not a tiny pokey one, but huge with several levels. Just the approach was so unique, down steep steps but with a view to die for! The Sassi or old town was spread out below us. It was one time no one complained about how many steps we had to climb. The restaurant food was great, more so the bundles of cheese they brought out in generous servings. If one ate all of it, it would be the cholesterol quota for the whole year, but seriously, the taste was unbelievable, mild like fresh mozzarella, we did not find out the intricacies of the names. Caves which were once the residences of the poor, were now taken over by restaurants and hotels. The famous Alberobello region of Italy is still almost as it was hundreds of years ago.

Grotto Castellana

The next morning was a day of miraculous sights, natural and man made. We were taken to Grotto Castellana, a humongous underground region of stalagmites and stalactites. Most of us have seen Luray Caverns in Virginia and many other such wonders, but never have I seen anything so big, so varied and in such beautiful colors. The trek inside, almost two hours, had to be made through painstakingly small paths (talk about how hard it must have been to make it tourist safe), often bending our heads and stepping gingerly on slippery floors. But it was totally worth it. The formations, along the three plus miles, sometimes like a Ganesha, sometimes like the Madonna and baby Jesus, here a cathedral, there some curtains of alabaster with perfect folds! Words are not adequate to describe this must see wonder. Formations were big and small, in pure white or pastel shades. Towards the end, just before we turned back, we saw the lovely cathedral formation in pure white.

The Unique Truli Homes

The next attraction to look forward to were the “Truli” the plural of “Trulo” which are a type of dwelling. Apparently these have been around since the 15th Century and are very cleverly constructed without any mortar. They are slabs of flat limestones put together in layers that defied natural disasters. They could also be easily dismantled and moved to other locations in case the feudal system demanded too much tax. There were hundreds of them, all still in good condition with people living in them or using them as hotels and restaurants. No longer considered a poor man’s property, they go for top Euros. Sometimes two or more are joined together to provide for bigger living quarters and we were able to see inside one and meet an authentic Italian family. Since 1994 it is a Unesco site and they even designed a church in the village using the Truli architecture to fit in. The town too was strategically located on a hill affording excellent views both of the Truli and the other dwellings, piled up close together.

The Alberobello Region

Our hotel in Alberobello, a small one had a nice location close to the city square with a cathedral and we could go on our own walk around. In fact the next morning there was a quick set up market with bags and other household items and the shoppers of our group had a free hand in striking some deals! That night was a bit sentimental as some of the group members were leaving. In fact, Pradeep, one the youngest members of our group, expressed eloquently his appreciation of his vacation with his parents and “friends” and said he enjoyed our company and the sights seen. Prema, Pradeep’s mom passed around some good wine. It was yet another chance to enjoy each other’s company over a leisurely homely dinner where the “Mom” of the manager had made delicious lemon tiramisu and other home baked goods.

We had seen lovely vineyards all along our drive and in fact a truck loaded with grapes had even given us free samples at a rest stop. But our visit to the wine tasting the next morning was somewhat of a let down as it was part of the town, nowhere scenic and just machinery and bottles of wine! Lunch was on our own and a pleasant change. We had pizza at a rest stop, but it was freshly made to order and with a thin crust. This avoided a two hour served meal! To save time, we headed straight for the Amalfi coast and skipped some towns scheduled in between. Before dark, we reached the famous Amalfi Coast, our luxury hotel in Vietri. The view did not disappoint and we enjoyed two days here, even having our food in the hotel. First and foremost we ordered capuchinos and sat on the patio overlooking the famous blue waters and the winding coastline where many movies had been filmed, including “Only You!” (which I happened to have seen on TV!) Then we laughed and thought of all the expressions with which to describe this scene so we could make other friends jealous! “A view to die for” won the competition!

Isle of Capri
The next day after enjoying our breakfast (did I mention Nutella was part of the breakfast menu and I had some everyday!) we headed on the short drive to the shore where we boarded our boats for the world famous Isle of Capri. The ride was pleasant and the island and ocean were scenic but it has probably lost some of the charm and romance associated with it in the bygone days. We were pointed out the place Jackie Kennedy stayed while on a vacation. We found it fairly commercial. What’s more, as soon as we landed, we were whisked away in another boat to see the Blue Grotto! This certainly was not an adventure for seniors as the seas were choppy and we had to anchor near the coast for over half and hour waiting for the rowboats. Once in them, we had to follow barked orders to lie down almost flat in the floor of the tiny boats, never mind that some had back and knee problems! Just do it!! Well, the entrance to the grotto was very small and while going in we had to be flat in order not to get scraped! Some almost lost their glasses. Once in, we could straighten up a bit and forget our discomfort in the few magical moments when the boatmen sang an Italian ditty and rowed in a circle while we admired the cool blueness of the water filled cave. We came out wishing we had done this, say 20 years earlier!

Ana Capri, Gorgeous Views

We then rode by bus to Ana Capri at the top of the island and saw the spectacular views. Back on the ship, we landed at Positano, another port with upscale stores. After more views, we were taken to our larger bus and instead of the boat, we rode on the very famous winding roads of the Amalfi coast, enjoying the ocean view. We just need to close our eyes and the picture unfolds, the bright sunshine, the blue waters with small ships and the amazing homes built on the sheer cliffs. We heard from our guide that 75 per cent of Italy is hills, the 75 miles of the Amalfi coast had over 3,300 hairpin bends and many long tunnels. Only local drivers were allowed to drive here.

Pompeii Ruins, Mt. Vesuvious
Heading toward Rome our tour had planned a stop at Pompeii near Naples. Just the name summons up old history, Julius Ceaser, Mark Anthony, Brutus etc. Not that they lived here, but the the volcanic eruption of the Vesuvius was of historical proportions in 79 AD spewing fire and ash. In the middle of the day everything went dark and there were loud noises and within moments a column of fire, smoke and ask started spewing from Mount Vesuvius. This could be seen from 28 miles away and wind blew and rained 13 feet of hot ash in the vicinity. Roofs collapsed and people were arrested in the positions they were in, instantly solidified by the boiling mud of over 500 degrees. Eventually a chance discovery while digging for water led to the finding of the buried city. The surprising part was not the eruption but the discovery of the sophisticated civilization of Pompepii. How the Romans lived was evident here, they had baths to avoid disease, amphitheaters for drama, running water, sewage, even spas with Carrara marbles still intact. The roads and high sidewalks were well planned, measured to allow their chariots with iron wheels to roll smoothly and people to walk and cross over safely. Everyone loved seeing the brick oven for pizza, probably the oldest our group had ever seen, just like it is today in many places in the US! Some things do not change! In the museum within the complex rested in a glass cases some actual victims, now preserved for the visitors to see.

We had a lunch every kid would have been happy with, pizza, speghetti, French Fries and Ice Cream, even the ketchup was so tasty! Top that off with some shopping for beads, volcanic rock souvenirs etc.,  put everyone in a happy mood. Then we headed for Rome. More pizza and this time we were served with a full mid-size pie each! Could not finish and could not take home either. Contrary to guide books saying “the food in Italy is not like Olive Garden”, we pretty much loved it all, especially our mini group’s dinner in Florence, more on that later.

Vatican City, Spectacular paintings on walls

The big day was coming up next morning, a visit to Vatican City. We rested and got ready early, following all the security protocol and being mindful of our possessions. It was rather crowded but we moved through the various halls smoothly, uneventfully. The paintings all around in every inch of wall space and ceiling were spectacular, unbelievable and awe inspiring, depicting beautiful humans and Gods and situations from religion and history. We could photograph everywhere except the beautiful Sistine Chapel. Michaelangelo’s talent that lives centuries after his efforts. We could have used a week, but all too soon we were propelled out by the crowd (not as bad as our Indian temples, we could linger a bit!!) We saw the window from which smoke comes out when a new Pope is elected, and the large square where people assemble on special holy days. Also we were able to see St. Peter’s Basilica. Each church and building so beautiful inside and out.

The Vatican square, Roman Forum and the Colosseum

Rome has so much to offer but we were doing it all in a day. So in the afternoon we set out to visit the ancient ruins of the Forum where political discussions would have taken place, now a cluster of columns, some upright, some on the ground. Still very impressive. Then there was the famous Colosseum. Though still at many levels, it is a ghost of its past glory, mainly because its good stones were stolen piece by piece we were told! We could see some re-construction, re-creation in the central area. The area beneath lay exposed, possibly where gladiators and beasts awaited their turn in the bygone eras. The Trevi fountain, more of a mini waterfall among the sculptures, provided our early evening entertainment, the streets nearby buzzing with activity. We also explored and found the Spanish Steps not too far away. After that it back to our bus and hotel, arrivederci Roma!

Some more fellow travellers departed and we did the last lap which was Siena, Florence and Pisa. We also drove through the Tuscany Valley, purported to be the most scenic region of Italy. The drive through was very pleasant, though in a other seasons, the view would have provided even more beauty. The rich and famous from all over the world owned villas here or rented them! The slim cypress trees added to the uniqueness. Everywhere the drivers were really good, they had a black box on the bus that recorded their speed, prompting them to be on best behavior!
Our lunch stop and first sight-seeing was in Siena. The word burnt sienna in a paint box comes from here, a brick like red baked by the sun. The Paleo horse race is also famous here,. In our brief walk along the ancient fort wall and into the small town, we saw two things that appealed to us. One was a square dedicated to Mother Teresa near the San Domenico Basilica. The Church was pretty with marble, gold and stained glass. The other was a 24 inch pizza! We had a long walk and spend a very pleasant hour or so in the city square surrounded by shops and restaurants. Of course gelato was a given. Then we drove on to Florence, one of the most memorable Italian towns. The night we arrived some of us were able to eat at Il Portico, an authentic Italian restaurant where we were served very nice vegetarian food. Marco and the staff even helped us to determine the quantity for our group of 12 and the chef served us roasted sweet onion on the house!

Siena and Florence, The Leaning Tower of Pisa

The next day we spent considerable amount of time in the town square and saw the famous Duomo. Many famous people had been baptised here and the decorated door to the baptism hall was beautiful. Michelangelo called it Heaven’s Door. A new façade had been put up in the 19th C. but the cathedral with its art and huge proportions outside was something we had never seen before. At the apex was a Virgin Mary with a flower. The marble was in three colors, complementing each other. Later walking around we went into a small church where Dante met his muse, Beatrice. Exploring the town more, we came upon the famous statues, especially notable being David, who I guess comes to be depicted as the most perfect looking human. But disappointment, these were not originals! Those were in a museum for which booking were done way ahead and we did not have the luxury of time. But even the copies were so good, talent is everywhere in Italy. Florence also proved to be the shoppers paradise where almost everybody bought leather handbags.

View of Florence city and the Piazza with leaning tower of Pisa

On our way to Pisa we stopped by the Michaelangelo Square which sported another statue of David and a view of great vistas of the town below. The drive to Pisa was good, but it was very close to sundown when we reached. Good that we made it because in that light, the leaning tower was just great! I had expected a rough stone structure, but its marble and intricacies blew my mind. My observation: the tower was peeping out from behind all the other beautiful cathedrals saying, “look at me”! We just sat there and admired it. Here was a building with character. It was more than a tall tower that was leaning but still intact and safe. After the Taj Mahal, it will rank second for me as far as marble edifices go! There was not time enough to climb it (though some rushed into it) but taking pictures on the outside was very nice. So was sitting on some nearby steps and admiring it while some others went shopping.
So ended our memorable trip, thanks to the organizers, we saw a lot and took fabulous photos which will bring back our sweet experiences and let us relive our travels.